Yuanyang

Now rice terraces aren’t exactly difficult to find in China, or South East Asia come to that. Find a mountain and guaranteed somewhere on it will be carefully planned and intrigately lined out terraces with little people (really should stop referring to the Chinese as little!) working away and water buffalo’s pulling ploughs. But when it comes to seeing rice terraces the ones to visit are in Yuanyang, the daddy of all rice terraces! Centuries old and covering around 12,500 hectares (sounds big but I have no idea how big a hectare actually is!), these terraces are the most dramatic and stunning in China – hilltop villages scatter the horizon, when not enshrouded by cloud drifting up the valley, whilst all around is a patchwork of terraces. Different shapes and sizes, many irrigated, others in different stages of growing rice, its a stunning sight. We arrive on our first day to be greeted by a whirlwind of a hostel owner, he seemed to do everything in double speed and with a basic grasp of English thrown in he was quite a character. He was a professional photographer and had dozens of stunning images on display all over the hostel plus a couple of published books of his to flick through and make you realise that although you enjoy taking pictures you had a lot to learn! Having just got into our room our host was rushing us back out the door to see the sunset, he informed us that “There had been many clowns and they were learning but today only clowns” – ok…, not got an issue with clowns, learning or not, but what is he going on about?! We arrived at the spot for sunset along with 15 or so others, all with the biggest and fanciest camera’s going (its not the size that matter but what you do with it, I kept telling myself!) and again he was going on about clowns as he pointed down the valley…ooohh, got ya, clouds raining but just clouds today! Think Shona would have preferred clowns to entertain her whilst the boring people took pictures waiting for the sun to set. The clowns, sorry clouds, rolled up the valley part covering the lower terraces, the sun slowly set and the landscape changed every minute as the colours, reflections and shadows changed. Then before you had time to put a lense cap back on our little whirlwind was shoving us back in the car and we were off back to the hostel.
The same scenario was played out at around 5:30 the following morning for sunrise, different location, a lovely couple from Switzerland to enjoy it with, same fancy guys with camera’s – old school dudes with big box cameras hiding under hoods waiting for the perfect shot! Its a stunning location and the hills and terraces just roll on down the valley for miles, the patterns, the shapes, the mirror reflections, its all amazing. Later that day along with the Swiss couple we head into the terraces to explore them close up going through some small villages on route, at one point being constantly poked by a cheeky local woman on the bottom with a stick! We were walking up through the village and she was behind me proding, much to the amusement of other villagers around. We got to the top and I grabbed a stick off the floor and challenged her to a duel – she backed down quickly, think she know a competant swordsman when she saw one!
Again that evening we headed out to catch the sunset, once again in another location, as we set off without our host he gave us a puzzling message as what to do when we got the other end! The government have recently built a viewing platform at the best spot and charge people to enter, we were met by a local women (about the only bit we did understanding of his message) who pointed at us to follow her. We walked down through a small settlement and into some woods, after a few minutes we came to a barbed wire fence. Our local women gracefully put out her hand and waved a 10 yuan note at us all before prizing the barbed wire apart and letting us all climb through. Basically the locals don’t benefit from the government viewing area, yet it is them who own the land and work the terraces! This way the money was going directly to the villagers – cool by us. The next morning, along with the other couple we headed back down the valley to Kunming spending another day hiding out in the hostel that wasn’t ours (although they were staying there) and had a pleasant evening together before saying goodbye as we caught a night train to Hua Huai.

jsouthwell

27 April, 2010 at 1:59 pm

Man that took bare time getting logged in. Had to reset passwords and usernames – damn passwords get me each time. Remebering the spelling of my own name is an initial challenge. But anyway. Have woken up very early – it’s 6am! and thought I’d write some shite or should I say update my entry on your blog.
Its been awhile since my last. Winter has finally passed and we thought we would never see spring. Its been a long harsh winter. The northern Lea Valley was particularly hit by continual snow and freezy conditions. There were times we were housebound for days and had to make special arrangements to get out, such as Galley Hall day and the other times we went to the pub or got supplies from Tesco.
Wev’e come into spring looking rather pale from the cold and houseboundness, so look forward to the sun on our faces. Louise needs it especially. When she shuts her eyes, for a quick moment she’s lost against the white wash walls.
Our last voyage prior to the bad weather, was to visit Hartham common. We had been to the town of Hertford and Hartham common was not far. Its walkable if you have the right footwear. In fact in most footwear you should make it.
There are different routes, but we took the most challenging which involved Lousie reading the map which is where the challenge was. After avoiding the white buildings so I didn’t keep losing her, we decided as we were in Stevenage, I’d do the map reading.
I got us through the small towns of Waterford and Stapleford. The people were friendly, but you did feel there was an air of suspicion they had when they looked at you. I was wearing my tracksuit bottoms and hoodie which is maybe why they looked slightly down on us, but they were helpful when knowing we was just passing through and heading in the right direction.
We made a slight detour into an area known as Sele Farm. The name somewhat throws you, as we was expecting seeing how the locals turn their hands at agriculture and animal husbandry, but it seems the area is a large pocket of tightly placed housing and not a cow in sight.
I certainly felt more comfortable in my tracksuit bottoms and hoodie here. The locals were a lot more friendly, I even got offered some crack, but replied I’m having enough laughs with my hilarious wifes map reading and disappearing tricks. Those Irish get about.
As we made it to the Ridgeway, you could see out and across the rows of terraced roofs. We made sure we came back the following morning to catch sun rise and take some photos.
We stayed the previous night on some field just off of the farm. It was quite noisy at first as the local youths were chased by police on their motorbikes which was all quite entertaining. Our guide book suggested the food in a public Inn called the Griffin should be tried. There was a long strange look from the bar lady when we asked did they serve any vegetarian dishes. We tried to ask again with adding some expletives, she understood and said no. But she could make a chicken casourole which we agreed to. Ate the chips and peas, gave the casourole to this poor looking dog who had this funny looking stud coller on.
The ice cream looking mobile shop outside was useful which visits the pub. We grabbed some tobacco, small bottle of brandy and some meths, just to help with sleep.
The walk on to Hartham was straight forward, only slightly trecherous avaoiding the 4 wheel drive vehicles that seem to be prevelent in these parts. Then the common meets the river Lea which when you follow, takes you back into Ware.
Iv’e run out of steam. Had to round that off. Lou has just come downstairs and says hi. She says she don’t look that pasty.
Sounds like you having a great time still.
Adios amigos
J

Comments

Chris Wright
27 April, 2010 at 1:49 pm
Your photos of the rice terraces are stunning.
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jsouthwell
27 April, 2010 at 1:59 pm
Man that took bare time getting logged in. Had to reset passwords and usernames – damn passwords get me each time. Remebering the spelling of my own name is an initial challenge. But anyway. Have woken up very early – it’s 6am! and thought I’d write some shite or should I say update my entry on your blog.
Its been awhile since my last. Winter has finally passed and we thought we would never see spring. Its been a long harsh winter. The northern Lea Valley was particularly hit by continual snow and freezy conditions. There were times we were housebound for days and had to make special arrangements to get out, such as Galley Hall day and the other times we went to the pub or got supplies from Tesco.
Wev’e come into spring looking rather pale from the cold and houseboundness, so look forward to the sun on our faces. Louise needs it especially. When she shuts her eyes, for a quick moment she’s lost against the white wash walls.
Our last voyage prior to the bad weather, was to visit Hartham common. We had been to the town of Hertford and Hartham common was not far. Its walkable if you have the right footwear. In fact in most footwear you should make it.
There are different routes, but we took the most challenging which involved Lousie reading the map which is where the challenge was. After avoiding the white buildings so I didn’t keep losing her, we decided as we were in Stevenage, I’d do the map reading.
I got us through the small towns of Waterford and Stapleford. The people were friendly, but you did feel there was an air of suspicion they had when they looked at you. I was wearing my tracksuit bottoms and hoodie which is maybe why they looked slightly down on us, but they were helpful when knowing we was just passing through and heading in the right direction.
We made a slight detour into an area known as Sele Farm. The name somewhat throws you, as we was expecting seeing how the locals turn their hands at agriculture and animal husbandry, but it seems the area is a large pocket of tightly placed housing and not a cow in sight.
I certainly felt more comfortable in my tracksuit bottoms and hoodie here. The locals were a lot more friendly, I even got offered some crack, but replied I’m having enough laughs with my hilarious wifes map reading and disappearing tricks. Those Irish get about.
As we made it to the Ridgeway, you could see out and across the rows of terraced roofs. We made sure we came back the following morning to catch sun rise and take some photos.
We stayed the previous night on some field just off of the farm. It was quite noisy at first as the local youths were chased by police on their motorbikes which was all quite entertaining. Our guide book suggested the food in a public Inn called the Griffin should be tried. There was a long strange look from the bar lady when we asked did they serve any vegetarian dishes. We tried to ask again with adding some expletives, she understood and said no. But she could make a chicken casourole which we agreed to. Ate the chips and peas, gave the casourole to this poor looking dog who had this funny looking stud coller on.
The ice cream looking mobile shop outside was useful which visits the pub. We grabbed some tobacco, small bottle of brandy and some meths, just to help with sleep.
The walk on to Hartham was straight forward, only slightly trecherous avaoiding the 4 wheel drive vehicles that seem to be prevelent in these parts. Then the common meets the river Lea which when you follow, takes you back into Ware.
Iv’e run out of steam. Had to round that off. Lou has just come downstairs and says hi. She says she don’t look that pasty.
Sounds like you having a great time still.
Adios amigos
J
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Chris S
28 April, 2010 at 3:36 am
Oh dear!! your brother’s been let out again.
The photo’s are amazing, the best yet.
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